Tuesday, October 30, 2018

I missed the bus on purpose

When I returned to the main island on Sunday night, I sat on the Grand Canal with tourists flocking around me but for the moment it felt like it was just me. So I missed the bus on purpose. For no particular reason. I just missed it. I went from rushing home to having it hit me this is real and I am here and this is now. So I missed the bus with no regrets. I stopped being annoyed for getting up too late to have time to go to Torcello. I stopped fighting myself and being angry with the world and embraced the moment. I stopped thinking about what was holding me back. It felt unreal, it was peace. Knowing the next night I'd be rushing to an airport to go on with life, and have to face the music of it all soon, made me want this night to go on forever. And when I wandered the streets guilt-free and realized I could go wherever I wanted, whenever I wanted, I could breathe. I stopped blaming myself for wasting money on food that wasn't the best it could be or having been here three days and still not buying gelato or wasting time on that show I wasn't present during. When I fully let those things go, I slowed down walking. I stopped. I bought gelato. I walked slower and checked the bus schedule, and I realized how lucky I am to be here. How blessed. How beautiful. So I missed the bus on purpose. Sitting there on the water with lights and cobblestone narrow streets, gondolas, gelato, Italian words, masks, art galleries, light up flying discs in the sky. This is why I came here. I escaped, yes, but I finally stopped following my GPS or bus schedule and just missed the bus.


Monday I got up bright and early to check out of the campground and decided to soak in the sunshine before it was supposed to rain (it never did). I headed to Lido, my happy place, the beach. I spent the morning by the sea with cold pizza reflecting before heading back to the city. When my bus pass was about to expire, I went to explore the Jewish Ghetto of Venice and decided to try all the cicheti that day. I wandered around to more churches, cafes, and by the water one last time before heading to the airport. I didn't ever see my new friends again but maybe someday our paths will meet again.

Venice: The Daily Breakdown

On the day I arrived, after meeting new friends Andrea and Luis, I headed into Venice to do some exploring. The first day consisted of me walking the Grand Canal, Rialto Bridge, St. Mark's basilica, wandering to find peaceful old churches, and just allowing myself to get lost.

                                                        The Grand Canal                          
          
                        
St. Mark's Basilica

Saturday was moving day for Andrea and Luis so after saying goodbye to them (with hopes to meet up again soon) I went off to do the tourist things such as seeing the inside of St. Mark’s basilica and Bridge of Sighs (which in my opinion is a bit overrated). I was specifically looking forward to seeing the Bridge of Sighs because a week before I had seen a “replica” in Oxford inspired by the real bridge that filled me with higher expectations. However, the bridge itself was tiny and I quickly moved on. I wandered to mask shops, art galleries, and art-filled areas such as Teatro Goldoni and Museo della Musica, a museum showing the inner parts of string instruments. Being a former violin player myself, I of course felt connected to the inner parts of the violins and took in the beautiful classical music in the background. Next I found myself in the Portuguese Pavilion observing an exhibit on Portuguese architecture. This one was purely to feel connected to my best friend whom I had been longing for this entire journey.


         

                  Seafood Cichetti                                         Mask Shop


                               

                                                 Teatro Goldini                              Museo della Musica
                          
Throughout the day I felt so guilty for being in a place I've dreamed of all my life and being in my head too much. I needed to have a memorable trip. I needed this time and space. I love the way the sun shined on me and how I could wear shorts and a tank top on October 13th. Despite the warmth, however, I'd been shaking a lot lately. Camping is supposed to be therapeutic and get you away from the real world like retreats when you grow closer to God. My "camping trip" consisted of me waking up shivering, but hey, at least it forced me to get up and embrace the day. That night I decided to treat myself by walking to an edge of the city to watch the sunset, seeing an opera and ballet show, and Italian dinner. When I arrived at the bus stop to go back to the campground, there was "yellow tape", red in Italy, surrounding the bus station and police all over the scene. I'm not entirely sure what happened but the next thing I know the bus I needed was departing from a different stop across the crime scene, left without a huge group of us behind, and we waited another hour for the scene to be cleared and take another bus back to the campsite. On top of this, the public buses in Italy don't typically say which stop is next like they do in London or Chicago so it is very confusing when you are not from the area and it is dark so you don't know which stop to get off at. So the bus ride back was eventful, to say the least. Once again, I laughed, at all of the craziness that was this trip.

                              









On Sunday I decided to get a water bus pass to Murano and Burano, two nearby islands of Venice, both unique and beautiful. My theme song for the day was "You gotta keep your head up" by Andy Grammar, stuck on replay in my head on the water buses from island to island. Murano is known for their blown glass art galleries and shops everywhere. The island was filled with color and a quietness I couldn’t find anywhere else. I wandered into more churches, glass art galleries, and a famous cemetery. Afterwards, I continued to Burano, known for lace and their colorful houses everywhere. The entire island can be walked in less than an hour but this one is more crowded with tourists. From Burano, I wandered to Mazzorbo, known for it’s vineyard and orchards and very high class restaurants and then walked back to the colorful houses of Burano. The tourist and local areas are not so far apart, given the small space, so I walked the streets aimlessly and headed to the edge to watch the sunset. On the way home, I met some lovely American women who were headed in the same direction as I was. After bonding over the rude bus woman who shoved me away and made me miss my stop, the women showed me an alternative route to getting back and turns out they were all friends from New York having a women’s trip around Italy. They inspired me and made me feel empowered and happy to have such strong women in my life that someday we can take more trips together. It was my last night in Venice already and the first time my mind was finally beginning to be there, present.

Murano

                                         

                      
                                                             
                                                 


                                                                    Burano



                                 


                                                             Mazzorbo


                            

                            
                            




Detour to Venice

I have never been so close to not going on a flight. Through check in, past security, charging my practically dead phone sobbing for hours in public at 4am running on about 3 hours of sleep- this is about as real as it gets. Just the night before I had attempted to go to bed early because I knew I would be taking several tube trips to the airport and essentially spending the night in Gatwick to avoid morning busses to the airport. Just like life, this night did not go as planned, as I was woken up by disturbing neighbors at 3am, couldn’t sleep, and then woken again for class to a lot of unexpectedness. I was Exhausted. Blindsided. Confused. This is only 3 of the emotions experienced that morning. The three tube trips from East London to Gatwick airport are honestly a blur but all I remember is attempting to sleep on an airport chair while waiting for check-in to open and then pushing myself to get through security without falling apart. I needed this trip. I needed this time. And I couldn’t let anything stop me. Fast forward to 4am again and I was sitting there contemplating changing my flight or going right back to my flat in East London. When you carry emotions, however, you carry them wherever you go. And so I could choose to go home and carry this weight with me or take it with me to Venice.

Fast forward to 5 days later at 4am and I was on yet another bus coming home from Gatwick airport to my flat- my trip, memorable yet blurry, to say the least.:


So back to Venice. While I was asleep for most of the flight, I woke up just in time to get a gorgeous view of the Swiss Alps and was trying to soak in the fact that I, Abby Thompson, was finally fulfilling my dream of going to Italy, Venice of all places. Somewhere along the way of my running emotions and spontaneous trip, I had forgotten everything would be in Italian and unlike my usual travels, had not even attempted to learn a bit of Italian, which normally I would be prepared for.
So after navigating the fairly rude drivers who barely helped me find my hostel, I almost cried at just how nice the woman running it was and finally felt some seclusion. The hostel was essentially a nice trailer park so it felt like camping and getting away. When I arrived at my room I was greeted by two friendly faces named Luiz and Andrea, two Masters students and also artists staying at the campground. Luiz was from Valencia, Spain and Andrea from Chile and we soon began talking.


Before this trip the feelings of loneliness also stemmed from all these little problems others around me were experiencing that kept becoming conflicts for making travel plans with my group of friends. I wish I was making this up when I say that one girl had the wrong sticker in her passport and had to leave the country, one hadn’t gotten her loans yet and could’ve been sent home, another still had the wrong modules (classes) to transfer and was said to graduate in May, and another’s phone had just been dropped in a river. I felt like I was wearing a sticker that said “Please, anyone with travel study abroad problems come to me and we can be friends and stress each other out together.” So you’ll imagine the emotions involved when I found out that Luiz and Andrea were also stressed out as they had been looking for three weeks for a permanent place to live in Venice to study for the semester. Somehow, I became part of apartment hunting and moving in a new city, where none of us spoke the language. The last thing I needed was my brain to be even more confused because while we were all in Italy, Luiz and Andrea spoke Spanish and very little English so for the next few days, my brain as tested trying to leave the Danish from a few weeks behind and speak the best Spanish I could to communicate.


Due to the language barrier, I was told on my first night that the two would be switching to another campsite, so I thought we were moving from number “5” and “6” to another number down the trail path in a different trailer room. However, the next morning, when I was ready to help them move without my bag for the day (or prepared to be gone the entire day), I thought to clarify if I needed “mi mochilla” for the day and found myself helping them “move” from our original campsite to a totally different one across town. We split up and said we would meet later on in the trip but due to the stress of apartment hunting, we never saw each other again.


You were probably expecting me to tell you what I did in Venice. To be honest, the entire travel plans all happened very quickly and I went in with no agenda. I thought this would be a nice relief from life, much warmer weather, and some “me time”. However, I was not myself at all while on this trip and spent a lot of time in quiet places, strolling trying to escape hundreds of thoughts running through my head. If you know me well at all, you know I’m not exactly the quiet travel kind of person- I like to be on-the-go dancing or making friends or seeing all the big sights. Not this trip. So when people ask me “How was Venice?”, honestly, it wasn’t great. The city was great, sure, beautiful, marvelous, awesome, but my memories of Venice this time lie in the quiet moments and places I encountered and in the feelings surrounding me for the weekend. And I’ve come to accept that is just how it is. I might be back. I might never come back. But this trip specifically was about more than that, and though it was probably one of the hardest of my life, my memories lie in the little things, the quiet moments, the peace I felt on Sunday, and the rollercoasters on the other days.

Tuesday, October 2, 2018

The Breakdown of Explorations

Night one I was greeted with a fællsspisning with family and it was the perfect warm welcome to my journey. What a hyggeligt evening!

The first day began by going to Charlottelund on the coast, an old Danish fort on the coast that is now a small urban camping ground. Then we drove up the east coast along the ocean to Hellsingor to Kronborg Castle, where Hamlet “takes place” and I finally saw sleeping Holger Danske. Holger is a viking from the old Danish tale that says he will continue to sleep until Denmark is attacked, in which case he will wake up and defend the country. To me, Holger sleeping symbolizes the peace and happiness Denmark owns and continues to have overall, despite our ever-changing world of politics, violence, and terrorism. Like any country, it has its downsides of course, but overall, the atmosphere feels calmer, with more freedom and tranquility. While walking around the castle, my host mom bought me a “Slentre Bar”, another symbol to me of the pace of the country. “Slentre” means to “stroll” and the idea is to savor the mouth-watering chocolate and caramel bar while strolling around and relaxing, exactly what we did at the castle. The day ended with the perfect inspiration to begin my trip with seeing a touring piece of theater for social justice at the Design Museum in Denmark. The piece invoked a sense of purpose for this entire journey and longing to begin studying and dive into more theater throughout this entire journey.
Charlottelund Fort

                             
                 Holger Danske                      Kronborgslot in Hellsingor ( with Sweden across from it)


Slentre Bar

Friday, my youngest host sister arrived home from boarding school and it was so much fun to speak with her because the last time we were together, she was just beginning to learn English and now she is practically fluent. We walked around the pedestrian street (another one of my favorite things about Copenhagen) Strøget, took a trip to the famous Round Tower to get a view of the city, and later went to one of my favorites: The Little Mermaid, along with seeing Denmark’s new first statue of a black woman, “I am Queen Mary”. And the strangest of them all, walking alongside a live recording of a famous Korean cooking show in Nyhavn!

      Strøget ~Pedestrain Street Round Tower Views
  Den Lille Havfruen   
     
                       Nyhavn 

                           
                                            "I am Queen Mary"

Saturday was probably my favorite day because it was just so relaxing and joyful. It began with a trip to Hellrødstrand (the beach) and Rosenhavn (the garden on the harbor) and continued with a traditional Danish smorgasbord lunch with friends, walks around the park, and a lovely dinner and ice cream with family.

                         


Sunday was the big “Tour de Denmark” as my host mom and I called it from a family Baptism to crossing the Copenhagen marathon lines to Tivoli (to see my host sister dance) to showing up a day early at a Lisa Nielson concert. (Haha!)

Monday consisted of more exploring of Carlsberg, an old Danish brewery, and Frederiksborg Castle, where we saw The Chapel of the Royal Orders of Knighthood, including the current queen’s, Queen Margrethe II. The day ended with actually going to see the famous Swedish singer, Lisa Nielson, on her “reunion” tour.


Tuesday was filled with catching up with old friends, seeing Assistens Cemetery in Nørrebro with H.C. Anderson and Kirkkegård’s grave, walking along the “lakes” in Copenhagen, seeing Christania, and a fascinating exhibition on sound waves and solitude at Cisterne. (Cisterne is a dripstone cave/old cistern now turned into a museum.) My last night ended in a hyggeligt time reliving childhood by creating chestnut animals and American s’mores, blending our cultures together, laughing a LOT, and spending time together.


             

           Assistens Cemetery                            "Genetically Modified Little Mermaid"

It was a full, blessed experience and I look forward to hopefully returning soon.


   

         

Copenhagen, Denmark: The Overview

I'm actually finally here. It feels really surreal to be on this continent, let alone sitting in my new home in London knowing I have lived here now for 12 days now. I've simply been soaking it in and jammed packed between gaining information and exploring the city as much as I can.


But let's rewind to Copenhagen, Denmark. Being in Copenhagen again as an adult was so refreshing because it was the perfect blend of being with family and living everyday moments and still doing tourist bits I hadn't experienced yet. I truly don't know how to sum up what an incredible, joyful, hilarious, warm time we had other than to say "Hver dag var hyggeligt" or “Every day was ‘hyggeligt’”.


While my Danish was very rusty coming in, there were several small moments I came across “as a Dane” speaking to strangers or meeting new people. It is really a treasure when your brain brings back vocabulary and phrases you didn’t know it still and one of my favorite parts of the entire trip was simply learning new words, refreshing my memory, and being able to hear stories and jokes in Danish and know what was happening. It was just so familiar and comforting.


Of course another favorite part was being spoiled by all my favorite Danish foods and candies from fiskefrikadeller to marzipan to flødebolle to pålægschokolade to pastries and even herring, which I originally didn’t like as a child. I was introduced to hyldeblomst juice (elderflower juice) and other new healthy variations of foods we have in America. I don’t think about this a lot but overall, Denmark is a much healthier country than America and it makes me happy to see so many people of all ages biking everywhere and simply eating combinations of food unlike I’ve seen before, so fresh and healthy. Despite my personal indulgences throughout the trip, which included lots and lots of chocolate and sweets, the country has a sense of working together to keep one another healthy and accountable and everyone I encountered had healthy lifestyle choices tied into a conversation somehow.


The weather surprised me and stayed fairly average and I loved soaking in moments by the ocean. I am so grateful for this time with family to get adjusted to the time zone and be able to explore while still retaining “summer vacation” and spending moments just observing my surroundings. I can’t imagine a better way to kick off this journey! (See next post for a breakdown of activities)